How do you get around a major city? Do you choose the overground or the subterranean option? In so many places we instinctively dive into the nearest underground tunnel only to emerge half an hour later in a different part of town. After all, if we only have a day to explore a city, surely we should use the time wisely and not get stuck in traffic or spend precious hours walking between two points of interest?
I am a firm believer in the overground option, and will use the underground only when I need to return to my departure point quickly, or when the skies have opened and threatened to drench me. Paris for me is one of the best cities to explore on foot, and I hardly ever use the Metro. I will share a great walk we did last year, that covers so many main attractions and yet stays firmly above ground all the way.
We arrived on an overnight train at Paris Austerlitz, located on the south bank of the Seine in the east of the city. Walking along the south bank, we observed the early morning traders busy setting up their stalls and the cyclists racing along the riverbank on their way to work. Soon we had crossed onto the central island that houses Notre Dame and we were admiring its timeless facade. The streets around Notre Dame are well worth exploring, and we wound our way around these narrow lanes, enjoying the bustle of the morning breakfast run in the little cafes.
Back to the south bank, and we now wandered along at a good pace, fuelled by a coffee and cake as we headed west on the opposite bank to the Louvre. Before long we were at the Invalides, and then the most famous monument of them all, the Eiffel Tower. We lingered here awhile, mainly at the Jardins de Trocadero, where one can enjoy the fantastic views and get the classic photo (if you can escape the attentions of the tacky trinket sellers).
By now we were ready to think about lunch, and we found a nice cafe just a little away from the Trocadero, frequented by office workers breaking from their desks. Soon it was time to move on, and it is a short walk from the Trocadero to the Arc de Triomphe. We even had time to get to the top of the Arc and enjoy the splendid views along the Champs Elysees, in fact all the way along the route we would now follow.
It is a straight line from the Arc to the Louvre, around 3 miles in length and a fascinating walk of contrasts. The Champs Elysees with its swanky (and also its tacky) shops and overpriced cafes, the impressive obelisk at the Place de la Concorde, and then the more tranquil setting of the Jardins des Tuileries, where local families come out to relax and others come to promenade. Soon enough, with now gently aching feet, we were at the Louvre, and enjoying the buzz of the crowds and the sight of the multi-coloured tour group leaders vying to heard buy their group above the din.
From here a gentle walk northwards through the 10th Arrondissement, one of the more captivating neighbourhoods of the city, and we were at Gare du Nord in time for our Eurostar. Around 10 miles in total, with many fascinating sights beyond the main attractions. Yes, we were tired by the end, but it was a satisfying feeling having enjoyed so many experiences (visual and culinary!) I would recommend this for anyone who has a day in Paris, loves to walk and who has already seen the Louvre, been up the Eiffel Tower and who would like to take it easy and see the city at a more relaxed pace. You could see the same sights in a day by using the Metro – but you will miss so many things!
