I have to admit to not knowing where Aleppo was a few years back. I had seen it on an airport departure board and wondered which part of the world those passengers would be flying to. So I was delighted when I started to research our trip to Syria to see that it is the country’s second city; almost the same in size as Damascus and nestled in the north, less than 100km from the Turkish border.
We stayed around 3km from the city centre, and after getting ripped off a couple of times by taxi drivers (small amounts but always irritating) we started to walk into the city. And what a great move that was! The walk was little over half an hour, but we passed a true cross-section of Aleppan life. Barbers, mechanics, butchers all going about their business from early morning and still there when we were walking home at 11pm. Cafes vibrant and serving out strong tar-like coffee (for men only). And the chaotic traffic, always hooting of horns yet rarely any signs of aggression from the multitude of drivers.
Aleppo itself is a city of two halves. The old city is a maze of charming lanes that make up the suq, with tradesmen of every possible type inhabiting tiny units amid the damp and humid covered area, broken up occasionally by a simple mosque nestled between the stalls. We found it much more fun than its counterpart in Damascus; better prices, less crowded with foreign visitors, and more intimate. The centrepiece of the old town is the Citadel, which is well worth at least a half day and forms the backdrop of every postcard in the city. Raised high on a natural mound, it certainly creates a stunning landmark.
The new city is quite different. Full of trendy shops and cafes, many historic buildings jostle for attention with old treasures. We passed five beautiful old churches in one street on our way to dinner. Talking of which, the cherry kebabs! We ate in an old town house, of which there are several. Syrian mansions from years gone by, now converted to upscale restaurants and using their beautiful courtyards to house their diners. We had a wide range of dishes, and the cherry kebabs stood out for us. Tender, tasty lamb soaked and served in a cherry juice that was sweet and yet not overpowering. Meat at its best! A great dining experience all round, with very reasonable prices and excellent service.
Aleppo was a fantastic place to explore. Wonderful Syrian hospitality, fascinating, safe, lively, and full of surprises. And if you tire of the city itself there are many great places to visit within an hour’s drive, such as St Simeons Church and the Dead Cities. Now I am happy to know not only where Aleppo is, but also a little of the delights that this remarkable city has to offer.
(Apr 2009)
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