501 Places

There are few places as grim as Puerto Natales out of season (ok, not including Blackpool or Skegness out of season… no, think of it, at any time of the year). Bitterly cold, a blustery wind coming of the icy waters, and heavy rain that tries to turn to snow but doesn’t quite do it. [...]

We missed our connecting bus in Puerto Natales by an hour. Next bus – 23 hours. We then knew we were off-peak, and reaching Torres del Paine would not be easy. A dirt track of a road winds its way from the Argentine border into the national park, with little passing traffic. With a pre-paid [...]