Oviedo had barely registered on my radar before my recent visit to the city. As a football anorak I did recall it being a venue during the 1982 World Cup in Spain. Beyond that I knew little about it. So when I was invited on a recent trip to Oviedo to attend the Turismo.as conference I was delighted to get the chance to learn more about this unsung part of Spain.
History
The history of Oviedo goes back to the late 700s and the city’s many splendid buildings display the architectural styles that have drifted into and out of fashion in the following centuries. From its lofty Gothic and Renaissance churches to its lively medieval market a stroll through Oviedo provides a glimpse of the colourful past of this attractive city.
No map required
I had two mornings to wander through the narrow winding streets of Oviedo. It is very easy to explore the old city on foot, and in much of it cars are not allowed in any case. We found two lively markets taking place during our visit. One was a street market that was focussed on selling Easter palm-related products (we were only a couple of days away from Palm Sunday); the other market was covered and full of stalls selling the many cheeses and meats for which the region of Asturias is well known throughout Spain.
Street Art
I do enjoy finding large pieces of public art in any city, and Oviedo has more than its fair share. In fact it is renowned as one of the leading exponents of street sculpture – below is just one of the pieces on display, and the public is encouraged to interact with the artwork (in this case, to climb on it).
An Eye for Calatrava
While the old buildings of Oviedo’s historic centre are photogenic in the morning sunshine, the city’s most striking building is surely the modern Palacio de Congresos. With construction nearing completion this white giant is reminiscent of the modern structures we saw last year in Valencia, which was also designed by Santiago Calatrava.
We were informed by our guide that Calatrava intended for this latest creation to represent the structure of a human eye. As an ex-optometrist I can declare my abject failure at finding the link between the eye and the straight lines of this imposing building. Regardless, it is a very impressive structure.
A Sticky Obsession
Asturias is cider country and I was surprised to learn of the many rituals and traditions associated with this local speciality. Perhaps the most striking is the method of pouring the cider from the bottle. The bottle is held as high as possible with the glass low and tilted in the other hand. the long drop between bottle and glass allows for the drink to release the carbon dioxide from the cider.
What is without doubt is that Asturian cider pouring leads to many sticky floors, covered in the spills of less than perfect techniques. Walk through an Oviedo bar late at night and the chances are that your shoes will feel as if they have picked up a few pieces of gum along the way.
Pre-Romanesque Churches
Even though my stay in Oviedo was very short I was particularly pleased to have had the chance to visit Santa Maria del Naranco. A pre-Romanesque structure dating back to 848AD, this wonderfully preserved building sits high on the hill overlooking the city.
The building was originally built as a palace for King Ramiro I, and was only converted to a church in the 13th century. Original symbols are still visible on the stonework, and the altar of the upper floor (taken from the nearby church of San Miguel de Lillo) dates from the 9th century.
I was in Oviedo for less than 48 hours and would have liked to have seen and experienced much more of the many attractions and activities that the region of Asturias has to offer. I guess I will have to return soon.
During my brief stay in Oviedo I was a guest of Turismo.as and Asturias Tourist Office. Flights were arranged by the Spanish Tourist Office in London.
Fabulous post Andy ~ you make it sound like a ‘must-do’ for travellers!
Northern Spain, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque country was one of my better vacations. Didn’t get involved with any cider pouring and wouldn’t want to, but sampled plenty of wine and even managed a day in the Rioja region. Really enjoyed the beaches with the children, touring the region, walking the Cares Gorge, phoning up a guide to get a tour of a prehistoric cave, a zoo /safari park in an old Iron ore opencast mine. Great memories.
Thank you Lynne and John for your kind comments and memories. John, the whole north of Spain deserves a much closer look and I’m sure I’ll be back before too long. As for the Cares Gorge, that sounds like a hike I’d like to do too. Thanks for the suggestions.
Hi Andy!
Nice post! I was in Oviedo, at turismo.as from Monday to Wednesday!
It was a pity not seeing you there
Thank you very much!! I’m from Gijon (Asturias), I hope that you like my city and my region.. if you decide return you are more than wellcome!!! thank you again for this post.
I can’t believe LP hasn’t had a write up on Oviedo! This is the most livable place we have seen in our month in northern Spain. No other Americans, which is great. We, too, love the street art and the World Heritage Sites.
Not to be missed.
Love Calatrava. He has designed the airport and a footbridge in Bilbao.