England without London – You’ll be amazed! Part 2 – Durham and North Yorkshire

After last week’s post on the Lake District and Northumberland, this week we feature the second in our series of posts about the marvels of northern England, and focus on Durham and the delights of Yorkshire. I hope this provides further inspiration for those planning to visit England to think beyond the capital in their itineraries. Here’s 5 of my personal favourties from this region.

1. Teesdale. This little visited region west of the city of Durham boasts some of the best walking terrain, and many excellent day hikes from the pretty villages and small towns dotted along the river Tees. It also includes England’s highest waterfall, High Force (a word of advice – don’t bother coming here if you come from any other country with massive waterfalls. It is impressive by UK standards, but a friend told me of the look of sheer bewilderment when she took a group of Brazilians to see this and they stood at the base and said “Is that it?”) The main Teesdale town of Middleton contains tea rooms with some excellent cakes on offer that can be enjoyed after a good walk.

This region is also great to explore on a cycle, with the road along the valley being relatively flat in contrast with the rolling hills on either side.

2. Durham. This was our home for 6 years so I can allow myself a little bias. Bill Bryson summed it up in his book “Notes from a Small Island” when he wrote “I got off at Durham… and fell in love with it instantly in a serious way. Why, it’s wonderful – a perfect little city…. If you have never been to Durham, go there at once. Take my car. It’s wonderful.” And it is. An impressive Norman cathedral dominates Durham from its lofty perch at the highest point of the old city, with the river winding dramatically around its base. The city is a small maze of quaint streets and alleys, with the peaceful riverside only a moment away from any point. If you come to Durham don’t miss the fascinating Crook Hall, only a few minutes walk from the city centre, and take a tour of the castle, next to the cathedral and in use by students as a place of residence during term-time.

3. The North Yorkshire coast. This area is a real mixed bag of old Victorian resorts and faded grandeur, linked by stunning coastal scenery and the backdrop of the wild North York moors. If time is short make your way straight to Whitby to explore the story of Captain Cook and see where he learned his sea-faring skills as a young apprentice. There is also an abbey, set against the backdrop of the sea and a photographer’s delight. And if you are going to eat fish and chips on your time in the UK then do it here; some of the best chippies in the country can be found here. Four miles down the coast is the tiny fishing settlement of Robin Hood’s Bay. A popular tourist spot in the summer, you can wander along the tiny alleys between the shops, spend time in the many second hand bookstores and enjoy more cakes and tea while looking out over the sea. It does have the feel of a place that time has passed by, but for me that is much of its charm. The harbour is picturesque and at low tide you can enjoy a pleasant stroll along the beach.

4. The Yorkshire Dales. This is such a large area it probably deserves a post of its own. Made famous by James Herriott and his veterinary adventures, the Dales are a delight for walkers, climbers, cavers and day-trippers who are looking for a nice view and a place for a picnic. While the narrow lanes can get unpleasantly busy in the peak holiday season, at any other time you can still enjoy relatively quiet roads and wonderful views wherever you look. Both the Dales Way and Pennine Way offer great opportunities for long distance walking, with services on hand to take your luggage by car so you don’t have to carry it. If you’re looking for a remote pub for great food, splendid isolation and even a decent night’s rest, I would recommend looking at the George Inn, in Hubberholme – it’s at the head of a valley and truly “the end of the line”, a wonderful place to pass away the evening hours before tucking in to some traditional food (although very bleak I imagine if the weather is not kind). We stayed here on a long distance walk back in 2002 (it’s on the Dales Way and close to the Pennine Way) and often talk of going back.

5. Harrogate and York. I debated whether to mention one or the other, and I hold them in equal esteem. Even the obligatory mention of Betty’s Tea Rooms, the finest (if most expensive) tea rooms in Britain, applies to both as they can be found in both Harrogate and York. Beware the long wait to get seated on a weekend though.

York, on the main railway line between London and Edinburgh and a city with a rich railway history (you’ll find the National Railway Museum here) has one of the most complete city walls in England, and you can walk along the wall for lengthy stretches. The quaint lanes of the city are full of boutiques and in summer are lined with buskers, while the buildings on the old roads such as The Shambles give a glimpse of how the city looked in the 14th century (if you really use your imagination). You can even find a shrine to St Margaret Clitherow here, who lived on the street and died as a martyr for harbouring catholic priests in the city. Harrogate is more sophisticated, with the boutique shops selling a more exlusive range of goods (although the main town is filled with the same rubbish as every other English city). Harrogate is also surrounded by big green spaces, and you’ll notice these on your way into the city. An old spa town, you can enjoy the Harrogate baths by visiting the Pump Rooms, recently renovated and now a very pleasant way to while away a couple of hours jumping from hot rooms to cold pools.

The final part of my “England without London” series will focus on the big cities of the Pennine belt, Merseyside and the Peak District.