San Miguel de Allende, Mexico: Beyond Stereotypes

Welcome to the first of our series of Home Pride stories. Every week we will feature a guest writer who will tell us about somewhere special from their home, and why that place is so dear to them.

Our first author is Paola Santos, now living in the UK but here describing the fascinating town of San Miguel de Allende in her home country, Mexico.

When I tell people that I am from Mexico, I generally get a very good reaction; probably it reminds them of their last holiday in Cancun or at any other of the many beaches around Mexico.

On the other hand, if I am not so lucky, they may start a conversation pointing out how warm it must be in Mexico, probably thinking that the whole country is a desert. I usually joke with my friends saying that indeed, we Mexicans spend the day drinking Tequila, sitting by a cactus in the desert and riding donkeys.  Well, probably some people do spend their day like that, but the reality is that as in the case of most stereotypes, this is usually simply a fixed idea that people have about what someone or something is like.

This made me think about a place in Mexico that, although in many ways is quite traditional, at the same time can be defined as extremely cosmopolitan – a fusion that goes beyond stereotypes.  San Miguel de Allende is a colonial town in the centre of Mexico and, far from being a well kept secret anymore, it has even been awarded as UNESCO World Heritage site.

San Miguel, as we Mexicans simply call it, is a little piece of the past in the middle of the country.  Its cobblestone streets and its colourful houses, its shops with traditional handicrafts and restaurants with in-door patios and fountains, have managed to retain the historic feel and uniqueness of the town.

Last year, I spent a few days there to celebrate the New Year.  I am not necessarily a morning person, but that Saturday I left my hotel before 6.30 am to take some pictures of the real San Miguel just before the streets got too busy.  Walking uphill towards the town centre, along the traditional Zacateros Street, I could admire the silence of the sleepy town and realise the contrast between this quietness and the busy streets of Mexico City.

Each house was painted with different and vibrant colours that were at the same time in harmony with each other.  At the end of the street, I reached the high walls that surround one of the many churches in San Miguel, the Templo de la Concepción (Church of the Conception), and otherwise known as Las Monjas (the Nuns).  There, I turned into Canal Street passing by the corner of the Escuela de Bellas Artes (School of Fine Arts).  Then, I walked in front of a local curiosity: the Cantina where one of the scenes of the film Once Upon a Time in Mexico was filmed – not that I am endorsing any recommendations about the film here!

Finally, I reached the Jardín (Central Square), which is in many ways the heart of San Miguel.  It is at the Jardín where both, residents and tourists sit on the benches surrounded by trees to spend time and relax in front of a magnificent view towards the Parroquia (the Parish Church), which is without a doubt one of the most iconic buildings in San Miguel.

After an unmissable breakfast at the San Agustin Café, that included not a very healthy but otherwise perfect cup of hot chocolate and churros (fried bread sprinkled with sugar), I headed towards one of my favourite places, the Mercado de Artesanías (Handicrafts Market).  This Mercado is a place full of colour where handicrafts such as tin ware, wool, stonework, papier-mâché, hand-blown glass and pottery, can be found. Of course, this market does not lack some cliché merchandise, such as wrestling masks and colourful cowboy boots, which I personally find quite amusing.

During my last visit to the Market, I dropped by the workshop of a local artist, Tomas Ramirez who, like many other local artists, creates colourful image impressions of animals and plants painted on papel amate (tree bark).  His work has an original touch that places the images somewhere between a portrait and an abstract painting.

I personally find quite impressive that San Miguel has managed to maintain such a traditional and picturesque environment in spite of its growing popularity and the influx of migration of both, Mexicans and expats.  Visiting San Miguel always leaves me with a good feeling, and makes me think that if taking things slowly and enjoying traditions makes this place stereotypical, probably some stereotypes are not so bad after all.

Paola Santos is a traveller and keen photographer inspired by world cultures, anthropology, local arts, communities and languages. Born in Mexico, she currently lives in the UK after experiencing life in Canada and India. Her aim is to write about her travel experiences and the challenges and rewards of choosing an expat life.

Follow Paola on Twitter or see more of her pictures about her walk in San Miguel on Flickr.