The world’s most unusual pub?

If you decided on the spur of the moment that you fancied a pint at the George and Dragon, forget it. This is one pub where you have to plan ahead with military precision. Although it may appear like an ordinary village pub, worn down over time but retaining the charm of years long passed, this is truly somewhere unique.

The George and Dragon is located on Foulness Island, just a few miles from the busy seaside town of Southend and around an hour east of London. The entire island of Foulness is the property of the state, or the Ministry of Defence to be more precise, and its operations are managed by a private contractor, Qinetiq. Access to and from the island is severely restricted, and there is no chance of just turning up for a quick pint.

We set off for the island on a hot sunny day in the summer of 2007. Having done my research, I called the landlord before we left home and gave my name and that of all passengers. This is not to reserve a table at the sadly deserted restaurant. It is for him to contact the security staff at the checkpoint on the island, to let them know the names of those expected to arrive that day. No notification, no entry.

The east coast of England operates on a different weather system to the rest of the country. As is the case on many hot sunny days, as we approached the coast the cloud thickened, the mist rolled in and the temperature plummeted. The shorts and T-shirt I had been comfortable in to this point were suddenly woefully inadequate.

On arrival at the checkpoint we were asked to sign in, and given a list of rules to follow on the island. No cameras, including those on our phones; no diverting from the road to the pub; no getting out of the car along the road. This was still England, but it took me back to places that I had visited before the fall of the Iron Curtain.

The drive to the pub was around 4 miles across desolate marshland. Did we see anything worthy of photos? Apart from a couple of firing ranges, nothing caught my eye. It was bleak, grey and unremarkable. Whatever secrets they had were clearly away from the prying eyes of the visitors.

The pub owner Fred Farenden was a welcoming man, who told us a little of his frustrations of trying to maintain a business amid such draconian restrictions. I bought a copy of his book, Running a Village Pub under MoD rules on Foulness Island, Essex. In it he describes the many ways in which he tried to make a success of his business, but each time he was thwarted by red tape and security concerns. After an unremarkable meal we asked Fred if we could take a walk as the surrounding area seemed appealing to explore, and he gave us a map of a short circular walk. As long as we stuck to the paths he told us we would be ok. After another round of refreshments we headed off away from the island and the clouds lifted as we re-entered the normal world.

It was sad to hear earlier this year that Fred had finally given up and closed the pub for the last time. I read that there is hope it will re-open, but I find it hard to imagine anyone choosing to take on such an impossible challenge. A real shame, as there was something very memorable about passing through a military checkpoint just to visit a village pub.