Vwaza Game Reserve, Malawi: possibly the worst place in the world to be attacked by hornets

This was is unremarkable photo of a gamekeepers’ watch tower. Poaching is common in this part of Africa, and the Malawi authorities patrol this vast area looking for poachers. There are a few of these look-out posts scattered around Vwaza Game Reserve, in the west of the country, and most are as ricketty and uncared for as this one. Note the large gap in the ladder near the bottom. Easy to navigate when calm, less so when descending in a panic.

We had hiked for around an hour from our overnight camp, and had enjoyed the views of the plains and wetlands of this remote park. Upon reaching this tower, it seemed sensible to take the opportunity to get a panoramic view of the area and take a few pictures.

That’s Sam (my wife) halfway up. She reached the top of the staircase and no sooner had she entered the dark interior when we heard a scream. She came out arms flaying and looking distressed and shot down the stairs very quickly. Putting her foot where the missing step should have been, she reached the ground a little sooner than planned. The reason for the panic soon became clear. A swarm of African hornets had not taken kindly to her entry and had attacked her, leaving her with twelve stings around the neck and shoulders. She started to tell us about this, and then a moment later passed out.

Now it was our guide’s turn to panic. Our jeep was an hour away, and he was off like a shot to retrieve it. He knew, and I also was aware and very concerned, that from here we would have to drive at least four hours before we reached a basic community hospital. He did have adrenaline in the jeep, but it would take him a lot longer to get back than might be needed.

Meanwhile, Sam was thankfully coming round and with the help of water, sweets and a good rest, she was up and about within 15 minutes. By the time that our guide came tearing back through the bush in the jeep, ready for the worst, we had all but forgotten the drama that had unfolded only a short time earlier. The relief on his face was palpable, and I suspect that in future he didn’t venture so far from his first aid kit when taking his groups out hiking. As for Sam, a few days later she was proudly sporting twelve large wheals on her upper body, each with a vivid green head at the centre. An unplanned souvenir from Malawi, for sure!

This took place in 1995, before the days of mobile phones (not that they would have helped much out there, I suspect). It passed off without any lasting drama, but could have been very different. Even now, there is a lesson for me that if we are going to hike in remote places, we will pack a basic first aid kit. It won’t have everything that we need, but if the moment comes when we have to be our own paramedic service, we should give ourselves the best chance of survival.