In search of the perfect burger

IN-N-OUT ------ SFR_DSCN_2When we overindulge in something, a natural consequence is to give it up altogether. So it was for me, having eaten burgers 2 or 3 times a week in a job that involved endless hours driving around the UK and almost daily lunches in motorway service stations. I stopped eating fast food in 2002 and have barely touched a burger since (let’s not include pizzas as fast food here). I have long been prepared however to make one exception to this abstinence.

American friends we’ve met over the years have been near unanimous in their views on where to get the best fresh hamburgers. I first heard the name In-N-Out back in 2000 on a stay with friends in California, although we never had the chance to visit at that time. Freshly ground, the best beef, quality ingredients; the reputation of this west coast chain was very impressive. It even got a glowing mention in Eric Schlosser’s Fast Food Nation, a book that slammed the entire industry of fast food. By contrast, he described In-N-Out’s industry leading wages and employee management practices, its obsession with quality and its refusal to follow the mass production methods of its bigger rivals.

On a trip out west in 2004 we made it one of our aims to find a fabled In-N-Out joint. We flew in and out of Phoenix, and as we left the city heading north on the highway we spied a sign for In-N-Out on the southbound side. After a week of touring the best of Arizona and Utah it was time to return, and by the time we were approaching Phoenix we were ready to eat. Sam caught sight of the sign as I sped past, so it was off at the next exit and back on the highway to try to make the exit second time around.

Sod’s law dictates that any U-turns will occur at the most inopportune moments, and it must have added 10 miles at a time when the tank was already running on empty as we were close to the airport and the rental return station. Heading south again I was so annoyed to find I’d missed it a second time, the complex web of exit signs defeating this confused alien yet again. Low on fuel and now tight on time to make our flight, we had to admit defeat and head for the airport.

So on a work trip to Palm Springs in 2008 I was pleased to learn that there was an In-N-Out on the I-10 near to the city. Fate was to strike again however, as the only day we had a chance to visit this mythical place, we couldn’t find it and eventually ended up at a Jack in the Box instead. My first burger for over 6 years, I almost wretched when walking into the place, the smell of grease hit me so hard. Like a ex-smoker who becomes the most passionate anti-smoking campaigner, I had lost all tolerance for the stench of the fast food restaurant. The whole experience was unpleasant and rather depressing, and probably put me off trying another fast food place for the next 6 years.

Needless to say, on our way out of Palm Springs we joined the highway and there it was, in bright letters enticing us to come in and taste the legend. Too late, yet again. By then we were on our way to stay with our friends in California, and their home-cooked dinner was a little over an hour away.

So In-N-Out remains an elusive destination. Maybe they will open one in London one day? In the meantime, perhaps those who have made it into this establishment can explain to me why it has such a cult following. Will I really find it worth the effort when I finally get to try one of their acclaimed burgers?

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About Andy Jarosz

Owner, 501 Places. Freelance writer.
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8 Responses to In search of the perfect burger

  1. Ray Blake says:

    I can only say that when you do eat there, you will absolutely understand. I last ate an In-n-Out burger thirteen years ago, but the very thought of it has me salivating now.

    Ray

  2. Yep. They are that good. My brother was so impressed he asked if he could set up a franchise in the UK, but alas, In-n-Out obviously think us Brits are undeserving of such a fine burger.

  3. You’re not missing much – honestly. It’s pretty good, but you’re eating 90% hype. Think of it this way: An In-N-Out is to burgers what a Mac is to personal computers or the Shawshank Redemption is to films. It unquestionably has its merits, but it’s not nearly as good as it’s made out to be by people who think it’s cool to say it’s the best thing ever.

  4. Andy Jarosz says:

    Good to see 3 Brits replying on this topic. I’ll make sure I finally get there next time I’m in CA. Must admit I find it hard to imagine a burger place will ever take my breath away with its culinary prowess; it is, after all, still a burger. And there are some pubs in the UK that do fantastic home made burgers. Had one yesterday in fact. (The Lynmore in Sharpenhoe, highly recommended).
    One of the great things about hype is that even those who don’t get so excited by a product will still try it, just to see if it was worth the hype (although I’m one of the few not planning to see Avatar, and suspect it would score lower with me than Shawshank Redemption, which like you I found good, but not brilliant).

  5. Eddie says:

    The In-N-Out burger was good. But I was expecting full Bible verses on my wrapper, not just the chapter and verse number! For shame.

  6. Phil says:

    Look at this before you go, and when you go go ANIMAL STYLE!

    http://www.in-n-out.com/secretmenu.asp

  7. Nicola Wade says:

    hmmm… never had In-N-Out burger, but if you ever find yourself in Cape Town South Africa, i highly highly recommend Royale Burger in Long St. Truely mazing amazing burgers, with about 50 burgers on thier menu… hard to beat.

    check it out http://dostuffct.com/activity/city-bowl/royale-eatery

  8. Fran Cormack says:

    You want one of the world’s best burgers, head to Hodad’s in San Diego. Out of this world. And I’ve had a lot of burgers, in a lot a countries.

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