501 Places

At every famous place in the world there seems to be one unmissable photo spot: the picture that we know will end up being printed, framed, used as a greeting card or as our desktop. Along with the almost everyone else, I too have made sure to capture those iconic images. But looking through my photo albums in retrospect, those images are not always the ones that provoke the strongest memories. Here are five of the most famous tourist attractions in the world that I’ve been fortunate to visit, and a few pictures of these sites from a less familiar angle.

1. Grand Canyon

Cottonwood Creek in the Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon; the classic view

The Grand Canyon is rightly listed as one of the world’s natural wonders. Few fail to gasp in amazement at their first view from the rim of the canyon. Yet if you are one of the few who choose to walk below the rim, you can witness the spectacular landscapes inside the canyon. There are excellent multi-day hikes that allow you to camp on the banks of the Colorado river, and also a number of good day hikes that allow you plenty of time to enjoy the  unique landscapes of the canyon interior.

2. Ayers Rock

Ayers Rock close up

Ayers Rock as it's best known

If you arrive at Ayers Rock you’ll be faced with the common dilemma: to climb or not to climb? While the argument not to climb usually runs along the grounds of cultural respect to the native cultures there is another good reason to choose to walk around the base: it gave us a completely unexpected insight into the rock, and allows us to appreciate the variety of natural life that survives around the base of this famous rock. We visited the morning after heavy rains and the waterfalls were very impressive.

3. Petra

Petra - exploring the Nabatean tombs

Petra - the obligatory Indiana Jones shot

Entering Petra through the narrow passageway (the Siq) with a guide, the standard trick a guide plays is that he will ask you at one point to close your eyes and turn around. Then he will play the Indiana Jones theme music on his phone and ask you to open your eyes, to be greeted with the inspiring view of the Treasury.

And it is truly one of those ‘Wow!’ moments. But there are other equally impressive sides to a Petra visit. Clambering up the rocks to explore the Nabatean tombs and learning about their burial rites, exploring the Roman ruins on the same site, and the climb up to the Monastery were all memorable sights, and far less busy with people posing for ‘that’ picture. The huge area of Petra will keep the interested visitor busy for two to three days.

4. Taj Mahal

An outer shrine silhouetted by the rising sun

Taj Mahal - the classic shot

From the main entrance, and sitting on the ‘Princess Diana’ bench: if you’ve been to the Taj Mahal I challenge you to tell me you don’t have these two shots at least once. I know we have several of them. Yet this site is so rich with beautifully adorned architecture that you are spoilt for choice on good photo opportunities. If you arrive at sunrise as most people seem to, and get away from the main crowds at the two points mentioned above, I found it surprisingly easy to take pictures of large areas by the different structures that were empty of other tourists.

5. Machu Picchu

The reconstructed buildings of Machu Picchu

The 'must have' shot of the Machu Picchu ruins

Was the moment when I captured this classic shot of Machu Picchu (left) one of my travel highlights? Undoubtedly. We have just walked for four days and this was our first sight of what we’d worked so hard to come to see. Standing at the Sun Gate and looking down on the ruins was something special.
But no less memorable was the opportunity the next morning to wander alone among the abandoned buildings and rocks of the site and imagine the lives of those who had been here 500 years before. Again, the interior of the site was very quiet and afforded us to enjoy the ruins pretty much to ourselves (although this was in 1996).

Rooftop waterfall - SHA Wellness Clinic

It was almost 9 years ago that I stopped frequenting fast food joints. Yet after my first night at the plush SHA Wellness Clinic in southern Spain the thought of a McBreakfast did briefly enter my head. How could this make any sense? We had just spent a night at one of the most luxurious places I’ve ever had the pleasure to visit. The setting could not have been further from that of a greasy fast food joint if it had been on the other side of the moon. Let me explain…

On the rooftop

SHA is located above the town of Albir, around 60 km from Alicante and only a short drive from Benidorm. In fact you can see the skyscrapers of the popular holiday resort rise from the morning mist as you lounge on the rooftop. SHA has the obligatory infinity pool which comes complete with a waterfall, and also on the roof you’ll find a putting green, another pool and a view down to an adjacent tennis court. And the next to these, the highly prestigious restaurant.

The view from the SHA roof toward Benidorm

Ok, we’re getting back to food again. One of SHA’s unique features is the importance it puts on healthy eating. Alfredo Bataller, the founder of the resort, was converted to the school of macrobiotic diets when he was seriously ill and found no respite from traditional western medicine. In a short time, a change in his diet following macrobiotic principles produced a rapid recovery. He decided to build SHA to offer these benefits to others.

So there we were, on the first leg of a press trip to the Valencia, in care of Alfredo’s son Alejandro who recalled this story as we sat down to our first meal. The evening meal was superb. Various combinations of vegatables, root-based soups and a delicious tuna steak. For dessert the ginger ice-cream was so delicious that I could have sneaked into the kitchen, tied up the chef and devoured the entire stock of this home-made marvel. And as for the chocolate cake? One spoon into its heart and a dark molten chocolate oozed from its centre. The sublime taste is not something that I will forget in a hurry.

It was the breakfast was a shock to my system. There were steamed vegatables, miso soup and even small cakes on offer. There was however a lack of any trace of dairy produce. No cheese, and more importantly, no milk. Well, that’s not quite true. Have you ever tried your cornflakes soaked in almond milk or rice milk? Perhaps it takes some getting used to. I decided that this healthy living could be hard going.

SHA Wellness Clinic in bloom

It was set in this context that when 30 minutes later we drove past those ubiquitous golden arches in the town, for a fleeting moment I had a pang. I did not succumb and it soon passed, but the episode confirmed to me that I have some way to go before I can embrace a macrobiotic diet and the lack of meat and diary products that it entails.

As for the resort itself, if you’re after a total escape from everyday life the SHA is hard to beat. Spacious bedrooms, walkways with soothing music and tinkling waterfalls and a room that had surely been treated to a generous helping of feng shui. I felt utterly at peace during the 20 minutes we had between our arrival back at the hotel and our departure for dinner.

The attention to detail of the designers is evident in every feature of the guest rooms and of the public areas. They have succeeded in creating an environment of peace, calm and relaxation. In fact, it could be a setting in one of those weird sci-fi movies, set in the future and representing a utopia where each of the life’s causes of misery and discomfort has been eliminated. But then again, I wasn’t paying the bill.

The infinity pool and beyond

It is one of those places that was a real shame to leave behind after only two nights. It might not be the type of place I would choose for a personal holiday (it is, after all, more used to hosting the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and Naomi Campbell). But if you are looking for a few days of healthy indulgence and total relaxation and are prepared to shell out a few euros to be pampered in the most tranquil surroundings, the SHA Wellness Clinic is hard to beat.

For my stay at SHA Wellness Clinic I was a guest of Land of Valencia, the Valencia Region Tourist Board as part of their #blogtripf1 event, with flights organised by the Spanish Tourist Office.

In the latest guest post on 501 Places, well-known travel blogger Darren Cronian shares with us a love of his native Leeds and offers insider tips for those visiting his home city.

For many people, when you mention the city of Leeds, they associate it with being a great place for nightlife and shopping, but as a local I know that there’s much more to the city than bars and boutique shops. Whenever you see Leeds mentioned on the television they always refer back to its industrial past, and some in the media even like to still portray that it is grim up north.

Here are a few reasons why I love Leeds:

Parks and open spaces

Canal Gardens at Roundhay Park, Leeds

It does not matter if you are staying in the city centre or in the suburbs, Leeds has tons of open spaces and parks that are well looked after. Temple Newsam and Roundhay Park are popular with locals for relaxing in the sunshine (yes, it is sunny occasionally!) or for letting the kids run around to burn off some energy. Within the city centre you can eat your lunch and people-watch at various open spaces like Millennium Square, Queens Park or City Square.

The waterfront

Leeds and Liverpool Canal

Many people visit the city without even realising that we have a waterfront. In the summer this is my favourite part of the city to socialise, relax and walk. Brewery Wharf has loads of restaurants and bars nearby, whereas Clarence Dock is home to the Royal Armouries. Head to Granary Wharf and you’ll find the Sky Bar in the City Inn hotel with great views of the city from the 13th floor.

Popular annual Leeds events

Party in the Park and Opera in the Park are the biggest free music events held in the UK, with over 100,000 people heading to Temple Newsam to listen to the pop and opera artists. The German Christmas market at Millennium Square is also popular with locals, with its market stalls, huge beer tent and Oompah band.

Recommended bars in Leeds

View from City Inn Hotel Sky Bar

I know I mentioned earlier that there’s more to Leeds than the nightlife, and there is. But I couldn’t write a guide about things I love about Leeds without mentioning my favourite bars. The North bar imports beers from around the world, and Midnight Bell has a great selection of real ale from the local brewery.

Darren Cronian has written about the issues that consumers have with travel for the last five years on his now famous Travel Rants blog. In 2009, frustrated at the lack of attention cities like Leeds receive in the media, he launched a website to highlight the many great things that Leeds has to offer. You can read more about places to visit and stay in Leeds on My Life in Leeds, a locally written guide to the city. You can also follow Darren on Twitter.

Chinese built plane, Lao Airlines

On a recent uneventful long flight I decided to pass time by counting the number of flights I’ve taken in my lifetime (sad, I know). I lost count somewhere over 300 and it would be reasonable to put the number somewhere around the 350 mark (I counted number of take-offs but I could have chosen number of landings; so far for me they’re pretty much equal). Considering my tally was only 6 when I had reached the age of 24 it suggests a large proportion of recent years spent in grubby airports and sitting squashed on aircraft of various shapes and sizes.

Yet even to this day, I can’t profess to being someone who enjoys flying. I put up with it and accept it as the most practical way of getting from A to B in most cases. Yet when there is an alternative such as a  decent train service I’ll probably take it.

In the early years I was a terrible flyer. I would tense up at every bump, every noise from the cockpit and every member of the crew who came rushing past me on the way to the cockpit. I have previously written about my worst moment on an internal Chinese flight with China North West in 1995 when I was convinced I was about to die. It wasn’t my only terror-filled flying hour but certainly my most acute episode of fear on a plane.

I could have easily thrown in the towel and decided to restrict our travels to European rail journeys. Yet in the years following that self-inflicted Chinese torture I flew at a greater frequency than ever before. So what happened?

My self-administered therapy method might seem unorthodox to some. You see, at the same time as harbouring a fear of being stuck in a plane I had a fascination with them. I remember sitting on the rooftop viewing area at Heathrow with my father when I was little and knowing the aircraft types and carriers as they took off and landed (thank you Top Trumps). I have also long had a morbid interest in air crashes. I can tell you about the safety history of most airlines and can recount with reasonable accuracy the major accidents of the last 20 years.

So my biggest step in overcoming my phobia was to sit and watch every documentary that I could find about air crashes. Investigations, reconstructions, movies, survivor accounts; I found them all fascinating, and would make a point to watch them whenever I could. And slowly, I noticed that when I was on a plane and heard a strange noise I gained confidence in knowing what it was (and what it wasn’t). I was able to internalise just how unlikely it was that the flight that I was on was going to crash, and started to relax a little more.

I still can’t profess to feeling completely at ease on a plane. My palms get clammy when we hit turbulence and I’m always a little anxious as we hurtle down the runway waiting to get airborne. But I have learned to control my anxiety, and when I consider the places that I’ve managed to visit that only a plane could realistically get me to, I’m grateful to the makers of those air crash TV shows for the unwilling part they played in calming my fears.

St Albans Abbey

We have moved house more times than most. In fact, in a little over 20 years together we’ve lived in or close to six big UK cities (Newcastle, Leeds, Manchester, Cardiff, Bristol and most recently London) as well as a spell in New York. We were, until 2006, proud to say we had not lived within 100 miles of London and its pollution, noise, rudeness and crime. Yet here we are, in our fourth year living in one of London’s most prosperous satellite cities, and in no urgent hurry to pack up sticks and head northwards.

St Albans became the latest stop on our tour of UK places to live when I finished my latest studies in Manchester and took a job based just outside of the city. We both moved south with some reluctance, and braced ourselves for a difficult adjustment.

We chose St Albans as I had worked here on a project some years before and remembered it as a leafy, attractive small city (a bit like Chester but smaller, or Durham but without the castle and the dramatic riverside setting).

Verulamium Park, St Albans

I left my job over a year ago, yet we are still here and that is a compliment to our adopted home city. I’m sure we will move north again at some point: even a few days in north Yorkshire earlier this summer reminded us of the beauty and solitude of the northern countryside and the relative emptiness of the roads once you leave the towns and cities (down here there seems to be traffic everywhere).

St Albans has much to like about it. There is its rich Roman heritage: you can find an ampthitheatre, a Roman mosaic and a section of original 2000 year old wall in the city. Then there is the no.1 draw in the city, St Albans Abbey. It is a hotchpotch of architectural styles of various centuries that somehow comes together to make a very impressive building.

St Albans Abbey

And perhaps the biggest surprise for us are the many areas of parkland that St Albans boasts. I had a preconception that the south east of England is so densely populated that I would struggle to find any green space. So it’s a relief to know that the city is home to swathes of open spaces where people can enjoy their walks or bring their summer picnics. The largest park is Verulamium Park, home to much of the Roman heritage of the city and a place we wander around on our regular evening strolls in the summer.

Modern sculptures in the Abbey - recognise the figures?

View of the park from the roof of St Albans Abbey

It’s also very convenient for access to London (20 minutes on the train) and more importantly to its airports. When we do eventually make a move back to the north, we will miss having a 30 minute drive to Heathrow or a 70 minute direct train to Gatwick (10 minutes to Luton). Being near a major airport and not just a hub makes an outbound journey much easier, but its real benefit is when you’re coming home and know that as soon as you get off the plane you are nearly home.

View of the city from the roof of St Albans Abbey

And as for London? Well we have even become fond of the capital. Having once had to battle through the traffic to drive into the centre, or endure a long and uncomfortable journey by train to get there, we can now take a trip into the city on a whim, even going in for an evening meal if we feel like it. It has become a treat to explore its neighbourhoods and hidden attractions thanks to our proximity to the city.

Fishpool Street, St Albans

So I have gradually become comfortable in singing the praises of St Albans. It is a pleasant place to live, and the best compliment I can give is that if you have no choice but to live in the south then St Albans is one of the best places to make your home.

The ruins at Gorhambury, St Albans

St Albans Abbey in winter

St Albans Abbey at sunset

Sunset over St Albans