Travelling independently in China was a challenge in 1995. Although it could be done, the state tourist service was omnipresent, and having booked an independent itinerary through a UK tour operator we were chaperoned in every city we visited (although did soon learn that “freedom” could be bought for around $5).
The best time to interact with the Chinese people was during our travels from one place to the next. I remember with particular fondness the train between Nanjing and Wuxi, a journey that lasted around 3 hours.
As soon as we boarded the train we were the subject of a lot of curious stares. Very soon, an elderly man came and approached us. He addressed us in broken French, and asked if we spoke the language too. Using my almost derelict schoolboy French, I introduced us and we exchanged greetings. As he explained to me that he had been educated in a French school in Shanghai, the other passengers in the car started gathering round and speaking to him.
And so began a most peculiar conversation. Someone would ask him a question. He would then ponder a while, and work out how to deliver the question to us in his now rusty French. Once I heard his words, I would then translate as best I could to Sam and we would answer. Again there was a delay as I tried to find the right French words. No sooner had he repeated my answer to the carriage occupants, than there were a volley of new questions for him to ask.
We enjoyed a fascinating three hour journey, which flew by. We asked some questions of our own, although were mindful that asking too many questions would lead to discomfort, and so we were happy to listen and answer in the main. It was a great opportunity to brush up on my French, as well as learn a little from this very interesting man and his co-passengers.
I firmly believe that curiosity is one of the greatest human attributes, and we are all born with it. After sitting on the London underground today, where no-one dares look another person in the eye, it was refreshing to remember a journey where a mutual curiosity allowed all of us to learn a little about one another. A part of me harbours a hope that the old man remembers that afternoon too.
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I love this post because it reminded me of an experience I had in February when traveling alone for a day around Arima Onsen and Kobe in Japan. I met a lady about my age and we talked for about 45 minutes via her electronic translator. She would type in her questions or comments and then read them to me in English. I retrieved a notepad from my purse and wrote down my answers, which she would put into her electronic translator to translate to Japanese. It was such a slow odd conversation, yet so much fun.
That's a great story. It goes to show that a lack of a common language should not stop us from learning from others. Like you say, the effort in communicating without speaking our preferred tongue can be so much fun! Thanks for sharing your experience.