Those who have spent any significant time in Laos recently may have found their way to Joma Bakery. It’s 100% geared to the falang market, and the prices will exclude not only the average Lao person but also many a hardcore backpacker. They do however offer a fresh cool interior, and their AC cafe is a welcome relief from the heat of the day in Luang Prabang or Vientiane. Their cheesecakes and shakes are fabulous, and I have no doubt that if they produced the same stuff in London or New York they’d be constantly packed with regular customers.

Joma have a focus on their community involvement in Laos and Vietnam, and the posters in the cafe display their involvement with local villages (like Starbucks but it appears a bit more real). There is a Tips jar next to the till, and each time we visited the cafe in Luang Prabang it was fairly full of cash. We heard that this was not always the case, and had changed dramatically as a result of a suggestion by the local manager.

Tips had typically totalled around $15 a month; not much between 6-7 staff, even in Laos where average salaries are little more than $30 a month. The manager suggested to the staff that they start a policy where 50% of tips are donated to the local community projects. You might think that this would be resisted, given the difference that even a couple of dollars can make in a month. But the staff embraced the idea, and the policy was implemented. A sign was placed on the Tips jar, and the effect was immediate.

People came in, enjoyed the service (it was excellent) and wanted to tip. Knowing that their money would not only help the local baristas but also the local communities in the area, the tips rolled in and in the first month they collected $300: a great contribution to the community and a ten-fold increase in tips for the staff.

No pressure, no suggestions, just a ‘tip what you like, if you like’ jar on the counter. As a result people tipped willingly, and not through fear of a likely confrontation. A small step, and such a big difference to the staff and others who benefitted from their initiative.

Tipping: one place that gets it right is a post from: 501 Places

A born poser!

Among my hundreds of photos from a trip I seem to have relatively few of people. I still can’t get over that discomfort of asking someone for a photo, even when they seem happy about it, and often stand back when others are clicking away.

As a result there are a number of people we met along the way who I wish I’d captured in a photo: the lovely lady who single-handedly ran the cafe in Nong Khiaw, the people we shared a long bus ride with and the many faces young and old who stopped to laugh at the strangers in their town.

There were however some moments in Laos where it seemed too easy to get a picture, and even as a reluctant photographer I was able to capture a willing subject. Here are just a few of those faces:

Our boatman on the trip to the 100 Waterfalls

Perhaps the most (or least) photogenic baby ever

The boy in the photo had just tripped over and was crying, so I organised a quick photoshoot to take his mind off the pain. Clearly I failed.

These kids in Luang Prabang were being very friendly. Soon after this photo they were asking for Cola. Lesson learned.

Heading home from school in Paksong on the Bolavan Plateau

Sam with the girls who took us to their school

Really not bothered about the falang with the camera. Way too cool to pose.

Left behind by her friends and staring at the funny people

Working in the fields

The smiling faces of Laos is a post from: 501 Places

For many visitors to a country their interactions with local people form the highlight of their stay, and create their most vivid memories. And of these encounters the ones with children inevitably tug at the heart strings and foster feelings of joy and, too often, sadness and helplessness. It was no different for us in Laos.

In preparation for the trip, I invested in a gimmick that I thought might create some interest with children and adults alike, and might serve as an antidote to feeling the pressure to give to begging kids. I bought an inflatable globe from Amazon. It cost me the grand sum of £5 ($8) including postage and took up no space at all in my pack. As someone who will stare at any world map as if in a trance, I wanted to share my passion with anyone who might be likewise inclined.

Taking the globe had some successes and one spectacular frustration. We stopped at several tribal villages at different parts of our trip. At one stop along the Mekong, we had a crowd of children around us, just staring curiously at these funny looking strangers. This was my first use of the globe. Inflating it created a great deal of interest, and other kids came running to see what the commotion was. For them the sight of this small flat colourful piece of material slowly turning into a big ball was fascinating enough. It was the adults who were then keen to find where Laos was, and then find China and their neighbouring countries. The children were probably not so worried about geography, but were just happy to be in the middle of all the action.

A couple of other encounters followed a similar pattern, with children just curious to see what we were up to, and the adults more interested in seeing their whereabouts on the globe. For those encounters with children who were set on trying to extract a dollar or two from our pockets, this attempt at a decoy was a miserable failure and served as no more than an unwelcome distraction in their quest.

The spectacular frustration? The one time we went for a walk in Luang Prabang and left the globe in the hotel room. We crossed the rickety wooden bridge at the northern end of the town, and a group of five young girls greeted us on the other side. They backoned us to follow them, and as we made our way behind them along narrow paths and through thick vegetation, a couple of them even exchanged a few words of English with us. After about 10 minutes we arrived at a large two-story building, and they proudly announced that this was their school.

Calling us to a doorway, they presented us to a middle-aged man who greeted us with a big smile and welcomed us into his classroom. He was teaching English to a large class of around 40, and invited us to sit on the front row. For the next 10 minutes or so we tried to speak a few words with his class, who ranged from the chatty to the very shy, and I also spoke a little to the teacher. This was not actually a formal class, but he knew a little English and spent his lunchtime with these children sharing that knoweldge with them.

Although it was a lovely experience to sit in the class and see these eager children, we were both frustrated that we could not bring out our inflatable globe for what would surely have been its most successful performance! We left the classroom thanking the teacher for his hospitality and as the children waved us off, we vowed never to leave the globe in the hotel again.

Why you should never leave home without an inflatable globe is a post from: 501 Places

100 waterfalls trek

In a recent Lonely Planet article, Tony Wheeler described his visit to northern Laos to hike the 100 waterfalls trek. It had only been discovered (for non-locals of course) in 2008, and a local ecotourism company Tiger Trails was taking small groups of visitors to the falls. We love hiking, we love waterfalls: we just had to go.

Nong Khiaw, set in a stunning location

The day starts in the small town of Nong Khiaw, set against a magnificent backdrop and straddling the Nam Ou river. Most of the residential part of the town is on the west side, while the guesthouses and the scattering of tourist restaurants are on the east. There is not much to do in Nong Khiaw itself, although there are some interesting caves a little way out of town (we walked to these and it took around 40 minutes each way). These caves served as the local regional bank HQ and the homes of many hundreds of people while the American bombers were destroying their homes and roads during the Secret War between 1969-1974. It is still easy to find evidence of UXO in the nearby fields. Nong Khiaw is also home to the best Key Lime Pie this side of Florida, but more of that later.

Marking a recent unexploded bomb (UXO) found on a path near Nong Khiaw

We had persuaded a small group of backpackers to join us on the trek (reducing our costs significantly) and so 8 of us set off with our guide Dhit in a long-tail boat to the tiny village of Don Khoun, around an hour downstream from Nong Khiaw. Once in the village we picked up a local man who would assist Dhit in keeping an eye on our large group.

From the village it was around 45 minutes walk to the start of the waterfalls. As we approached the falls and heard the sound of the water tinkling over the rocks, those who were still wearing hiking boots changed to their sandals or flip-flops, ready for the climb ahead.

Work goes on regardless the arrival of our hiking group

There aren’t actually 100 waterfalls, and there isn’t one spectacular view of a giant drop or funnel of water. What we did find was a continuous waterfall, stretching for maybe 2km, up which we scrambled for around 90 minutes. At some stretches we walked gently along the river bed, at others we pulled ourselves up using the rocks that scattered the landscape. In a couple of very steep places there were even bamboo ladders in place to help us up to the next level.

Hiking up the falls

The rocks had a remarkably good grip, and I don’t think any of us slipped during the hike. Technically it is a fairly easy hike and the fresh running water provided blissful relief against the heat of the day, although thankfully much of the hike was in the shade of the surrounding jungle. With the constantly changing scenery and the excitement of walking through a long and varied waterfall, the time we spent hiking up the fall flew by.

At the top of the falls our guides pulled out a couple of giant banana leaves which served as a tablecloth, and we were given a delicious lunch of cooked eggplant, fresh salads and omelette. It was a wonderful spot to stop and enjoy the breathtaking scenery.

The way down was via a steep path through the grassy land away from the water, and we returned to our boat ready for the trip back to Nong Khiaw and some Key Lime Pie.

A welcome reward for a great day's hiking

So what about this pie? Well the previous day we had spied a sign on a local cafe (Delilah’s) proclaiming that Key Lime Pie was on offer. The delightful owner of Delilah’s was apologetic that it was not actually available, but promised us a pie the next day. And it was well worth the wait, with even our group member from Miami agreeing that it was as good as the real thing! She presented each of us a slice with her wonderful beaming smile, and a couple of the group apparently polished off the remainder for breakfast the next morning.

The table laid, ready for lunch

If you are staying in Luang Prabang and have a couple of days to spare this is a highly recommended trip. Nong Khiaw is around three hours from Luang Prabang so will need to allow a day to get there and a morning for your return, but it will be a hike that you will not experience anywhere else. And once you’re finished, don’t forget to pop into Delilah’s for a sweet treat!

The best hike ever? 100 waterfalls trek, Nong Khiaw, Laos is a post from: 501 Places

The Vat Phou boat

While the tourist paths of northern Laos are becoming increasingly well trodden, the number of visitors to the south of the country are still relatively small. Those who do make the trip to the areas close to the Cambodian border, dominated by the Mekong and the life that is centred around it, are well rewarded for their efforts. This fertile area supports a surprising diversity of landscapes, ancient temples and spectacular waterfalls, all of which can be explored easily and in relative solitude.

Without doubt the most comfortable way to explore this fascinating region is by joining a luxury cruise, allowing visitors to float gently along the Mekong river and exploring its many treasures en route. Most of the attractions of this region are located on or close to the river, which makes a river trip a perfect way to visit the sites of interest while enjoying the comforts of great accommodation and sumptuous food.

Processional walkway to Vat Phou

The gateway for visiting southern Laos is the city of Pakse, and this is also the starting point for the Vat Phou river cruise, operated by Mekong Cruises. The cruise takes three days, although only full day is spent actually making progress on the river in the Vat Phou cruise boat, while the first and last days are mainly spent exploring various sites along the Mekong. The boat is also moored at night, as the river is not considered safe to navigate in darkness.

The boat itself is homely and a very comfortable place from which to sit and watch the life on the river. And there is much to see, as barely a mile goes by without seeing local fishermen at work, children paddling their way across the mile wide river, or villages built precariously along the Mekong’s high banks. The 12 cabins are compact but allow for a good night’s sleep, with a very effective AC system (so effective that on our trip the passengers held a vote and decided to have it switched off at night; Europeans 1 Americans 0).Each cabin has a good sized shower, sink and WC, along with plenty of storage space.

The main standing structure of Vat Phou

The food on board was excellent: as with most tourist focussed cuisine in Laos it was served devoid of chilli heat but with chillies as a side for those of us who wanted to add some spice. We did note immediately that far too much was served and although it was delicious we could barely make a dent in the servings, and we were concerned at the amount of potential wastage. We learned that the crew ate what we left, and what was still left over was then donated to the local villages that we visited along the way.

So what is there to see along the way? We made several stops during the three days, and there were three clear highlights:

1. Vat Phou. This ancient Khmer temple complex, older than Angkor Wat itself, is set in a truly stunning location. Set back from the Mekong and on the slopes of the surrounding hills, it enjoys wonderful views over the river and surrounding countryside. Our group had the site pretty much to ourselves, and for over two hours we explored the temples with our guide and alone, admiring the sacrificial stones, ornate carvings and cleansing pools that make up Vat Phou. It is remarkably intact, and although there are teams at work on restoring and preserving the site much of it is exactly as it has lain for over a thousand years.

Vat Phou site

A recent article in The Times suggested Vat Phou as an alternative to visiting Angkor Wat. While I would not agree with this (the vast spread of the Angkor Wat site is incomparable) a visit to Vat Phou will certainly impress. We were there until just before sunset, and the light in the late afternoon made for an unforgettable sight.

2. Four thousand islands (Si Phan Don). This southernmost tip of Laos was our final stop, and to explore this part of the Mekong we transferred to long tail boats (the river cruiser is unable to navigate the rocky and often narrow channels here). The landscapes are dramatic, with crystal blue waters revealing many tiny green islands and a thriving river life. Boats are the main mode of transport here, and it is common to see families using long-tail boats to go about their everyday business. There is even an old railway line, built by the French to link the upper Mekong in Laos with the lower stretch on the Cambodian side of the rapids found here. A old locomotive sits forlorn in Don Det, evidence of the rapid demise of the railway project.

Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands)

3. Local villages. As with many of the river boat trips we took in SE Asia, the cruise company has an arrangement with local villages, where they allow visitors to see a view of local life and the company provide them with a much needed cash boost. Having seen a number of these villages, it is clear that villages take different approaches to welcome their visitors. On this trip our main village stop was memorable for the number of children who came running out to greet us. Everywhere we walked they would tag along, waving, posing and chatting away, all the time laughing and pointing at the funny foreigners. While they were clearly used to having falang (literally meaning long nose, but referring to all Europeans) strolling through the village, their effusive chatter and ubiquitous smiles reflected positively on our whole group.

Children posing for pictures in the villages

We even had the chance to take a dip in the river. I had a short swim, and was alarmed at the strength of the current. Not being the strongest of swimmers, I battled the current for a couple of minutes and quickly retreated to the shallow waters near the boat, but I can proudly say that I swam in the Mekong and survived.

The Vat Phou boat is very different from the other boat operated by Mekong Cruises, the Luangsay. On the Luangsay boat, described in a previous 501 Places post, the journey is one that everyone takes by boat; the choice is whether to do it in luxury or not. Here the Vat Phou cruise is not a way to get from A to B; after all, you are returned to Pakse at the end of the trip by minibus. This is a cruise for the sake of cruising, and most of the passengers were experienced cruisers. The cost of the 3 day trip is over $500 a head (varying according to season), and the high levels of service and comfort that this price tag demands are met by a crew that are clearly used to working with western customers.

Life on the Mekong

We drifted on our trip between luxury tourism and backpacking, and I have to say that after three days of having everything done for me without being able to raise a finger I was happy to throw on the rucksack and return to the world of uncertainty at the Cambodian border. But if you are looking for a comfortable, well organised way to explore a little-visited corner of SE Asia, this is a trip that comes highly recommended. And with direct flights from Pakse to several other SE Asian cities it can be easily combined with a wider itinerary in Thailand, Cambodia or Vietnam.

(Disclosure: My 2 day trip on the Vat Phou boat was taken at a discounted rate in exchange for featuring the experience on 501 Places and elsewhere)

River cruising in southern Laos: Vat Phou temple and the 4,000 islands is a post from: 501 Places

I have crossed several borders overland in recent years, and even now there is a strange sense of excitement and apprehension as I approach the border guards. They have it in their power to make life very difficult for someone, and it is always my hope that that someone will not be me that day.

We approached the Cambodian border with southern Laos at around 2pm on a hot December afternoon. There was no-one in sight, and as the Lao driver who had brought us on the final stretch of road to the border waved us off, we walked to the Lao departure point, an old wooden hut holding the final Lao flag that we would see on our trip. “One dollar” the surly official said, and then added “two people, two dollar”. I had read about these processing fees and was not too surprised, but wanted to query him further. I got an irritated stare when I asked him what the dollar was for, and following a subtle kick from my wife Sam under the window I paid up and moved on; a dollar is not worth getting a man in uniform angry about, but still an imperfect ending to an otherwise outstanding 16 days in Laos.

Walking through no man’s land for 100 metres, we were soon greeted by the Cambodian guards. First we had to have a health check. This consisted of a thermometer to the forehead, and the official gave us our all clear with a big smile. We waited with baited breath for the magic words, and he didn’t disappoint: “one dollar”. Thank goodness I had brought lots of single dollar bills. Next we went to the visa hut, and while these were being processed, a young lad was eyeing us up from the corner of the shack, rather like a cat sizing up its prey. He knew we were far from town, and he had a car. How much could he get from us? He asked where we were going, and his starting price for the trip to Stung Treng (90km) was $50. He insisted that he normally takes a car-full for that price but as we were the only ones in sight we would have to pay for the whole car.

While we were negotiating with him our passports were returned and we were shown to the final booth to collect our Cambodian stamp on our newly issued visas. You’ve guessed it: one dollar visa fee. Our driver friend was waiting for us, and when he insisted that $40 was the lowest price we headed towards another car parked up around 50 metres away, and he finally settled on $30. I suspect I could have got him down lower still, but I figured $15 a head is only a little more than the bus which charged $10 for the same trip and had already made its last trip of the day.

It is a real shame that both Cambodia and Laos allow this behaviour to be common practice at their borders. I don’t bemoan the loss of $6. I’m sure those guys are not well paid, and seeing a rich foreigner passing through must present an overwhelming temptation to impose these small untraceable ‘processing fees’. The real damage is done to the reputation of the country and the perception of honesty of its people.

We encountered very little scamming of tourists during our stay in both countries. Tuk-tuk drivers, often the worst at over-charging, were remarkably fair in Cambodia in particular, and even in Laos where they tried a very high figure to start they quickly agreed a fair price and always with a smile.

But when a government official, dressed in uniform and carrying authority starts to demand unauthorised cash from visitors, it reinforces the image of a corrupt and unreliable system without any accountability. It will be great to hear someday that the Laos and Cambodian governments are taking this matter seriously, but I won’t hold my breath…

Daylight robbery at Laos/Cambodian border: not worth the fighting is a post from: 501 Places

SE Asia Games, Vientiane

I heard much about Vientiane being a very laid back capital where there is little to do for the visitor. After spending over a week in Laos it was hard to imagine anything other than a chilled city as the centre of this smiling, easy-going nation. Happily, Vientiane lived up to its billing, with one notable correction; there IS much to do here, and if you spend three nights in Vientiane as we did, you have no reason to get bored.

As we travelled through Laos the previous week there had been only one main topic of conversation for Lao people: the SEA games. These are the SE Asian Olympics, and were being held this year in Vientiane. Teams from Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, Philippines, Myanmar, Brunei, Indonesia, East Timor, Malaysia and Singapore joined the hosts Laos in competing for gold medals in several hundred sports. Watching the crowds on TV we were thankful for our luck in deciding to book a hotel room in advance, as others who we met described their difficulty in finding a bed during the Games.

Certainly the multi-national crowds of spectators added to the festive atmosphere in the city. Every Lao person seemed to be wearing a T-shirt supporting their team, and the largest foreign contingent, the Vietnamese, were also out in force, waving their flag and blaring horns through the city centre. The football tournament sparked the most passion, and on our final day a major party was in store with Laos competing for the 3^rd place medal and Vietnam in the Gold medal final. Sadly both lost, and the small victorious Malaysian crowd were hardly noticeable in their celebrations.

The giant reclining Buddha, Vientiane

We did chill out in Vientiane, but also got to see a few of the city’s impressive sights. Perhaps the most memorable is the Buddha Park, around 25km from town (close to the Friendship Bridge, the main crossing into Thailand). The park is not large, but is crammed with some of the most extraordinary Buddha statues, including one reclining Buddha which must be over 100 feet in length. There are also statues of many deities from the Buddhist and Hindu faiths. The park was full of visitors from Laos, as well as many of the visiting sports people who were taking a break from the SEA Games. A local bus runs directly to the park from the city’s Talat Sao bus station and takes around 45 minutes. The bus ride itself was an adventure, crammed in with many traders heading to the market and children on their way to school.

Pha That Luang, Vientiane

Vientiane’s most notable landmark is Pha That Luang. This is not only an important national monument but also a place of holy significance. A 40 minute walk from town brings you to this golden marvel, with two impressive wats flanking the central monument. It’s a calm and peaceful place to linger and enjoy the intricate detail of the buildings in the complex, although after 10am the heat gets quite uncomfortable, and there are not many places to escape the blazing sun.

Patuxai, Vientiane's Arc de Triomphe

Halfway to Pha That Luang is Patuxai, Vientiane’s version of Arc de Triomphe. Built in 1969, it is a bit of a hideous concrete lump from close up, although from a distance it makes a striking and powerful landmark. The views from the top are worth the climb, although be prepared to pass an enormous souvenir market as you climb the stairs to the summit.

As elsewhere in Laos, the noodles and rice were delicious and very cheap, and we enjoyed yet more sub $2 meals. One extravagance we had was a few visits to JoMa bakery. We found this place first in Luang Prabang, and were happy to see another branch close to our hotel. It does wonderful cheesecake, and the best fruit shakes in Laos!

There is not much traffic in the city, and even in rush hour the cars and tuk-tuk seem to have plenty of space to make their way across the fairly small downtown area. As elsewhere in SE Asia, we saw no signs of road rage, with near misses on the road invariably greeted with a smile.

Vientiane offered a relaxing, indulgent yet entertaining three days for us, and while it might not have the magical atmosphere of Luang Prabang it is still the capital of this small, beautiful country, and is worth a few days to explore.

Vientiane, Laos: A capital city that forgot to behave like one is a post from: 501 Places

Plain of Jars

In the West we are familiar with the Vietnam War, where millions of American soldiers went to fight the communist forces of the north during the 1960s and early 1970s. Few are aware however that the bulk of the carnage inflicted by both sides in that war in fact fell on Laos, desperately unfortunate in its geographic location. A strategic shortcut between north and south Vietnam, the communist forces used Laos as a supply route, and the Americans in turn dropped the equivalent of over half a tonne of bombs on the country for every Lao citizen.

Bombs found in the Phonsavan area

Laos is in fact considered the most bombed country in the world, and the shameful campaign led by the CIA (known here as the American War) led to hundreds of thousands of civilian deaths, and proved ultimately futile as the communists swept to power as the US troops retreated. Despite almost 35 years passing since the American departure, the legacy of the bombing lives on, as hundreds of Lao people die every year from accidents with UXO (unexploded ordinance). Of these casualties, 40% are children and the numbers are rising as poverty and an increase in demand for scrap metal mean that many are willing to risk their lives for a kilo of bomb  metal, which might yield $20.

The most important health and safety sign ever seen

Xieng Khouang province, in the north east of Laos, is the most heavily bombed part of the country. We stayed at the lodgings of Sousath Pethrasy, the man who single-handedly campaigned for the Lao government to open this area to tourism. Sadly Sousath passed away recently, but his family continue to run the guest house and take visitors to see the military relics of the war, as well as the UNESCO recognised Plain of Jars.

The mysterious Plain of Jars

Starting early, we checked in at Phonsovan’s Tourist Office to get clearance to visit the sites. There we were able to see many bombs and bomblets found in the area.  Having visited the MAG (Mine Advisory Group) offices in the town a day earlier and learned about the extraordinary task of clearing the area of UXO, it was fascinating to see some of the ordinance at first hand.

On arrival  at the Plain of Jars, we carefully followed our guide’s briefing on where to go and where not to stray. After all, only the marked paths had been cleared of UXO, and stepping far off the trail could lead to sudden death or worse (there are a shocking number of amputees in this region of Laos).

This small cave near Nong Khiaw served as the Luang Prabang bank HQ for 5 years during the US bombing

The jars themselves are a real mystery and well worth the visit in their own right. No-one knows how old they are (best guess is around 2500 years old), what they were used for (common assumption is that they were part of the burial ritual), and who used them. Scattered over many sites in Xieng Khouang, we visited three of the earliest excavated site that had been cleared of mines and deemed safe for tourists. The jars make for a wonderful backdrop and leave the visitor with a sense of speculating on the unknown.

Jar split by growing tree

We decided to walk between two of the sites. It involved a 5km hike, and as we passed over the brow of a hill between the two sites, our guide stopped us and pointed under a bush. There, before our eyes was a small bomblet; a real UXO. It was only around 30cm in length, but would be enough to cause a life-changing injury. Needless to say, there was no need for our guide to tell us not to touch!

Our very own discovered UXO

A visit to this part of Laos is hugely rewarding. Not only does the visitor get to see one of Asia’s most impressive archaeological sites in the absence of mass tourism, but there is a frightening, sobering yet intriguing facet of recent history that is still being played out today, and will make a strong impression on almost anyone who visits.

America’s Secret War, and the Plain of Jars is a post from: 501 Places

Monks collecting alms at dawn

If you visit Laos you will almost certainly spend at least some of your time in Luang Prabang. While Vientiane is the adminstrative capital there is little doubt that Luang Prabang is the cultural, historic and tourism centre of Laos. If you travel here by boat as we did, approaching the city along the Mekong the buildings are almost unseen amid the trees and the high river bank. Yet once you climb the steps from the landing points you are quickly transported into another world.

Ok, first you need to get past the pushy tuk-tuk drivers. They’re touting their wares, just as they do elsewhere in this part of the world, although as with other traders in Laos they stay on the right side of the acceptable level of harassment. As you walk on you will soon be surrounded by wats, and likely see monks performing their daily duties around the temple grounds.

Wat Xieng Thong

Luang Prabang is really about monks and wats (Buddhist temples). They are everywhere, and you will often be stopped by monks as you linger in the grounds, eager to practice their English. They were very happy to share with us their daily lives, their plans for life after the monastery (girlfriends feature high on the wanted list!) and their curiosity about us falang (foreigners).

Lao ladies chatting on street corner

While the monks were relaxed about talking with us during the afternoons, in the dawn light they were altogether more formal, as they collected alms from the local people and tourists. This is an ancient ceremony that is carried out each morning, as they march through the main street on their way to the temple, and the people of Luang Prabang pass their gifts (sticky rice and bananas mainly) to the monks. The whole ritual took place in silence (although the street vendors are trying to sell over-priced donations to the tourists to give to the monks).

A deserted wat on the left bank of the Mekong

We also took the chance to cross the Mekong on the local passenger ferry (a long motorised canoe) and explore the small villages on the other side. Here, as the only foreigners we were greeted with curiosity, laughter and various attempts by local children to extract money or soft drinks from us.

There are many great spots around the city to chill out and enjoy the great views of the river and of the temples. And when you’ve had enough of walking there’s always the chance to indulge in a Lao massage. We had a head, back and shoulder massage and it was one of the most pleasant experiences, even if at times I was forced to conceal a yelp of pain.

Luang Prabang: where different worlds mingle freely

There are of course countless opportunities for tourists to spend their dollars here, and while many local seek to profit from the visitors to this city they seem to manage a balance between selling and harassment that is sadly missing elsewhere. Even at the crowded night market, the stall holders invariably smile and greet you, allow you to browse and will not chase after you if you decline their offers.

The night market, Luang Prabang

There were many individual highlights in our four days in Luang Prabang, and no doubt I will add to this brief summary once back home. For now it is sufficient to say that we found this to be a truly unique city, and worthy of the high praise we had heard before. Amid all of the beautiful buildings and the serene backdrop of the mighty Mekong, the people of Luang Prabang were for me the undoubted highlight.

Luang Prabang: worthy of the hype? is a post from: 501 Places

The Luangsay Boat at a village stop

There are several ways to travel between the Thai-Lao border and the ancient city of Luang Prabang. The bus journey takes around 10 hours on roads that leave a lot to be desired. Most people choose to travel along the Mekong River as it meanders south through lush Lao countryside and passes simple villages that rely on the river for their existence.

Even then there are three alternatives to consider. There is the speed boat, which can make the journey in one day, but as an option that has had so many serious accidents and even fatalities in recent years, few ‘farang’ (foreigners) take the trip. Most will take the slow boat, which makes the journey in two days and stops overnight in Pakbeng, where travellers need to find a place to stay. This is the cheapest option, but not the most comfortable journey, particularly if the boat is full to capacity or worse.

Sunset on the Mekong

The third, the most luxurious and most expensive option is to take the Luangsay Boat operated by Mekong Cruises. At a price that would blow a gaping hole in the budget of the long-term backpacker, this boat caters far more for those on relatively short itineraries, where keeping the daily budget to a minimum is not a priority and where comfortable travel is a must. At a standard rate of around $400 you would expect a lot for your money.

The children came out to meet us in the villages

For me this trip lived up to those expectations. Guests are met at the immigration post on the border and ushered into the Luangsay office to complete their formalities with a drink in hand and well away from the early morning scrum waiting to get their Lao visa. Once everyone has the necessary stamps they are whisked away in tuk-tuks to the boat pier further upstream. Another drink is served to welcome passengers onto the Luangsay boat, and the river cruise is underway.

Water, tea and coffee are served on demand and are very welcome in the cold mornings. Lunch is served on board on both days, and is an excellent quality buffet. We had four vegetarians on our cruise and they were very happy with their lunches. In between meals we were offered plates of fresh fruit and banana chips, so were never even slightly hungry. And the seats were comfortable recliners which could be moved around to face the sun or the shade. It would be hard to find a way to make the boat more comfortable.

Luangsay Lodge at Pakbeng, where we continued being pampered for the night

There is a crew of three or four, including our guide who spoke good English and took the time to tell us the history of the river, the places we saw along the way and a little bit of Lao culture and etiquette. Apart from his briefings we were left largely in peace while cruising, and the thankful absence of a microphone might have meant more work for him in repeating his message several times, but spared us a loud intrusion in a serene setting.

The Mekong River at Pak Ou

I expected a trip to middle-age to elderly Brits, Germans and French passengers. While that would account for some of the 20 aboard our boat, we also had a young family taking the slow road to Australia, a Thai lady on vacation and a young German couple who were cycling all the way through Laos and Cambodia. People soon mixed and shared their travel plans, life histories and war stories from the road, and listening to others sharing their tales while watching the river life of the Mekong was a relaxing and decadent joy.

We made a couple of stops on each day. On both days we visited a tribal village, and were able to see how people scrape an existence on the river. One village was completely geared up to the passing visitors, and was really more of a giant tourist market with every other resident sitting on the street hoping to sell their scarves and shawls to us. The first village we visited was far more memorable, as the people here seemed unprepared, or unphased, by our arrival. The adults carried on life as normal and ignored these intruders, and only the children took an active interest in these strangers in their midst. It was the interaction of the group with the children however that made the visit such a pleasant one.

Life on the Luangsay boat

Our overnight stay was also in Pakbeng, but we stayed in the Luangsay lodge (meal and accommodation included in the cruise cost). This really was a beautiful place, set on the banks of the river and with amazing views of the sunset from our large en-suite bungalows. The meal was excellent, and as we were a large party a group of local villagers performed a Lao song and dance show. These spectacles can be hit and miss, and at 30 minutes it was the right length and didn’t keep us unduly from our dinner. The costumes were fascinating to see.

It got cold at night, so we were glad of the extra blankets that were provided. They even offer wi-fi in reception, which is amazing considering the remote setting. That being said, I was unable to connect when I tried. I must admit though, that in such a beautiful setting I felt a bit guilty for even trying to make contact with the rest of the world.

Before arriving in Luang Prabang we even made a short stop to visit the Pak Ou caves, something that most visitors to the city make time to do. In this way the boat trip saves passengers a half day excursion that they would otherwise have made. Although the many Buddha statues were remarkable, I was not over impressed with the caves, probably because of the swarms of people trying to squeeze into the the tiny space. Having spent so long in luxurious spaciousness the crowds were a rude awakening. I would not have considered it a worthwhile trip to take four to five hours of my time just to visit Pak Ou.

Lao Whisky distillery

Choosing the Luangsay boat along the Mekong river is not for everyone. If however you are wanting to travel to Luang Prabang from northern Thailand with comfort and great service all the way, this option offers travellers a chance to enjoy the river scenery in luxurious style, with a well thought-out itinerary that keeps guests entertained and educated along the way.

(My 2 day trip on the Luangsay boat was taken at a discounted rate in exchange for featuring the experience on 501 Places and elsewhere)

2 days of luxury on the Mekong: Luangsay boat to Luang Prabang is a post from: 501 Places