High speed tales from Canterbury

Canterbury's narrow lanes

Canterbury was the first city taken by William the Conqueror in 1066, and it fell without a struggle. Almost a thousand years later it is the first port of call for many French daytrippers and weekend tourists, much like Boulogne is for the English (although with the pound as weak as it is these days, it’s this side of the Channel that might hold the best bargains). Less than 20 miles from Dover this historic city, packed tightly with quaint alleys and ramshackle buildings makes for a good day out, even on the rainy day that greeted us on our arrival in Kent yesterday.

Canterbury; the main market place

I had been surprised to discover that the high speed line used by the Eurostar services is also available for domestic rail companies to use. This has transformed the journey to Canterbury (previously a jaunt across London to London Bridge and then a 90 minute slow train) into a 55 minute zip along the new route under the Thames at Ebbsfleet and through the rolling Kent countryside. Thanks to the new rail route this corner of Kent has suddenly become a easily executed day trip. More of executions later…

West Gate, Canterbury

Canterbury certainly ranks alongside those other famous English historical cities: Bath, Durham, York, Chester and Stratford on Avon, and it ticks the boxes that all of these quaint places have to tick. It is full of charming buildings; it has a river nearby where tourists are sold dubious boat rides; there’s a ghost walk at night; alongside the boutiques and locally owned craft shops are all the same dreary names you’ll find on every British high street (although they’ve had to work within the constraints of the historic premises they lease); and of course there are plenty of places for visitors to spend their money.

Canterbury Cathedral; the free view version

Pride of place in Canterbury is the cathedral. It is the home of the Archbishops of Canterbury, and the site where Thomas Becket, the Archbishop at the time of Henry II was murdered (‘who will rid me of this troublesome priest?’) He was the first of five Archbishops of Canterbury to be executed; surely one of the most hazardous job titles in years gone by?

Constructed mainly during Norman times, it is an impressive building, although you won’t see much of it without shelling out a hefty £8 per head to even get through the gatehouse. Having returned two weeks ago from Normandy where we saw many similarly impressive cathedrals for free, we chose this time to walk on by.

Canterbury was certainly full of tourists and the main language among the troops of raincoats and umbrellas was French. In between the showers a wide assortment of street performers plied their skills, keen to make the most of the limited time that the visitors were able to wander the drenched streets.

For cricket fans the home of Kent County Cricket Club is known across the world for its famous tree that once stood proud inside the boundary of the pitch. The old tree died a few years ago, but a new one is growing well and the ground retains its charm. For those who are keen to visit it’s an easy 15 minute walk from the city centre and you can have a free peek inside on a non-match day.

Wonky house, Canterbury

We enjoyed our few hours in Canterbury, despite the rain, and will no doubt return for further exploration. There is a walking trail from the city to the coast at Whitstable (the wonderfully named Crab and Winkle Way) which sounds like a great way to spend a summer’s day, especially with the prospect of great seafood at the end of the walk!