England without London – You’ll be amazed! Part 1 – The Far North

First off, let me state that I enjoy visiting London. There is so much to see, and I love just getting off the train at Kings Cross and walking to wherever the mood takes me. Regent’s Park, Camden Town, the South Bank and Hyde Park can all be covered in a gentle day’s meandering past historic buildings and streets, with plenty of great food stops and people watching opportunities.

But London is no more a reflection of England than New York is of America or Paris is of France. Which is why I’ve always got frustrated by friends from elsewhere who say they have been to England, but have actually spent three days in London. Or if a little longer, they may have taken a day tour to Bath, Stonehenge or Oxford. London is so dominant on the global tourism stage that it will require some courage or quirkiness to take a trip to England and decide to completely avoid London. But it can be done, and if you have been to London before, then why not try the north of the country and discover a very different country. There are many flights from the US and elsewhere that come in and out of Manchester and distances between places are relatively small, leaving a visitor plenty of time to explore, get to talk to local people (they like talking to strangers up north) and enjoy the sights, tastes and slower pace of life that characterise the north of England.

Here’s a few of my suggested highlights (I’ve split these into two posts as there is too much to share in one!):

1. The Lake District. Less than two hours from Manchester, this corner of England offers spectacular views, endless hiking opportunities and some great hotels. A perfect spot to relax by the lake, to climb a few fells (they’re not big enough to be called mountains), rent a cycle to explore the forests, and if you’re brave drive along some of the narrowest roads in the country. A popular hang-out of a number of Hollywood stars, including Dustin Hoffman and Tom Cruise.

Hadrian's Wall, Housesteads, Northumberland

2. Hadrian’s Wall. A line of rocks in a field may not sound the most enthralling sight to visit, but this Roman structure is not only very well preserved in places, it also passes through some of England’s most beautiful landscapes. Various centres along the wall offer interpretations of how life would have been for Romans living at the northern extremity of the Empire, and it is easy to take a hike along the side of the wall from any of the visitor centres. You can also visit Once Brewed (or even the nearby Twice Brewed) as a great spot for lunch.

Early Morning On Lindisfarne

3. Lindisfarne. When I lived in the north east of England, a trip to Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, was a yearly pilgrimage; a trip to a wild, desolate and beautiful place, cut off from the mainland for several hours each day. Just over an hour’s drive north of Newcastle, and as long as you have checked that the tide is out before you travel, you will cross the isolated, usually wind-swept causeway that links Lindisfarne to the mainland. You can wander around the village on the island with your camera, exploring the old monastery, the castle and the row of shops and cottages, but the real beauty of this place for me is beyond the castle and along the secluded shoreline. We have hardly ever seen another soul here, and you will only have the sea birds for company as you walk along the pristine white sand. Make sure you know when the tide is coming back in, or you might be in for a long wait before you can leave!

Bamburgh Castle, Northumberland
4. Northumberland coast. Just south of Holy Island is Bamburgh Castle (what a great website! If these guys can do it, why can’t other attractions follow suit) and few castles can boast as dramatic a backdrop as this one. Well worth a visit inside to explore the rooms and read about its long history, you will nonetheless be drawn to the windows to the spectacular view out to sea. A walk along the sandy beach will give you good views back up to the castle, and on the green below the walls in the summer you will often be able to watch a cricket match in progress.  Travelling south from Bamburgh you will pass several other old fortresses, with Warkworth and Dunstanburgh particularly worth a look.

The Angel Of The North. Explore 283

5. Newcastle. Depending on your interests, Newcastle has different things to offer. Considered one of the world’s greatest party cities, it is easy to see why if you venture along the Bigg Market late on any evening (Monday night here is more lively than Saturday night in many other cities). We would often take visitors along this stretch of the city just to observe the strange creature that is the drunken, scantily clad Geordie girl, particularly surprising in December. The biggest surprise to me when I first visited Newcastle was the abundance of impressive historical buildings. It is easy to pass along Grey Street and Grainger Street and admire the Victorian marvels that were constructed on the back of the shipping and coal industries that were thriving at the time. And don’t miss the chance to see a football match while you’re here. If you’re neutral about your allegiance this is one of the best places to watch a game. The noise, passion and seemingly endless heartbreak for the supporters mean that you will have a day to remember (and you will be welcomed warmly by all around you). You should not miss the chance to admire the Angel of the North while up here – loathed by most locals when it was erected and now an iconic image of the north east.

Look out next week for the second installment of northern highlights.

Post to Twitter

About Andy Jarosz

Owner, 501 Places. Freelance writer.
This entry was posted in England, Europe and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

8 Responses to England without London – You’ll be amazed! Part 1 – The Far North

  1. quirkytraveller says:

    Loved the post Andy. Of course biased in favour of the Lake District but also really love Northumberland. Stayed in Berwick upon Tweed in June and visited lots of lovely palces along that coast. Great fish & chips in Seahouses …

    If you're ever in Cumbria let me know and we'll have a mini-Tweetup! Zoe

  2. Andy Jarosz says:

    Thanks Zoe. Sounds good. Will bring Tom Cruise along for the ride too :-)

  3. Andrea @ Viadeo says:

    The peaks near Sheffield! They're gorgeous, and have got some great walks – definitely worth a look if you're ever back.

  4. Andy Jarosz says:

    Thanks for posting Andrea- I have another whole post on the north coming up next week. Was only in Bakewell area last month and agree it's a beautiful part of the country.

  5. AndyMont says:

    Great post, lovely to see Britain outside of London being promoted and yes, we northerners definitely DO like to chat, and to smile! I guess you'll be finding your way to my home city of Manchester any day now – the greatest 21st century city in Britain (no bias there then!)and obviously the best soccer club in the world too LOL!
    I live in Tenerife now but I still miss Manchester life sometimes.

    Following you on Twitter and looking forward to more posts.

  6. Bay Area Tendrils Garden Travel says:

    I'm yearning for a trip to London, and thinking about taking trains to more out-of-the-way places, as well. Have never been to Scotland! Or for that matter, many parts of England… how's the exchange rate ;~D
    Alice
    aka BayAreaTendrils Garden Travel

  7. Andy Jarosz says:

    @Andy No comment re: the football (each to their own:-) but yes I will give Manchester a mention. It was home for a few years to me after all. What do you miss about Manchester while living in Tenerife? Not the weather I assume… ?

    @Alice I hope I can inspire you to visit the north of England in that case. Enjoy London, it's unique, and try and take the chance to explore the north too. As for Scotland, it warrants a whole trip on its own.
    Exchange rate currently around 1.6 – not the best, not the worst it's been. Prices are lower away from London for many things.

  8. Andrea Montgomery says:

    Mainly I miss the humour and the multi-cultural society with its visual, culinary and musical variety. But I also miss the buzz of the city centre which I never got when I lived in London as it was too spread out.
    Oh, and the modern architecture and great clothes shops too!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>