We missed our connecting bus in Puerto Natales by an hour. Next bus – 23 hours. We then knew we were off-peak, and reaching Torres del Paine would not be easy. A dirt track of a road winds its way from the Argentine border into the national park, with little passing traffic. With a pre-paid booking at a lodge in the park, there was no option. We comandeered a driver in the town, who offered to take us in his mini-bus to our lodge for around $80. He had almost fulfilled the bargain, when the gearbox gave up on him at what must have been the most remote stretch of road on the whole three hour journey. Eventually we flagged down the daily service bus, who was able to radio our lodge. The lodge manager came out to meet us and take us to our accommodation – three hours from his day and he was a life-saver. He shrugged off the thanks, and ensured we got a warm greeting on arrival. Such was the way with everyone we met in these parts – quiet understated hospitality.
The park itself is stunning, and more so out of season for having the place to ourselves. Hiking opportunities are endless, with glacial lakes, powerful waterfalls, glaciers, ice-bergs, striking jagged peaks.. I could go on. There are many well-known and well-mapped trails through the peaks that will keep you high in the mountains for days. Sadly, low cloud denied us the classic view of the towers that give the park its name -we saw them later from a distance as our bus rumbled back into Argentina. Although the park is in Chile, you are more likely to visit from Argentina than elsewhere in Chile, such is the remoteness of the area and the lack of roads. But if you do, make sure you know the bus times – or carry some extra cash with you, just in case!
(Apr 2007)
