There are few places as grim as Puerto Natales out of season (ok, not including Blackpool or Skegness out of season… no, think of it, at any time of the year).
Bitterly cold, a blustery wind coming of the icy waters, and heavy rain that tries to turn to snow but doesn’t quite do it. The town is a ghostly place in late April. The majority of visitors to Torres del Paine have passed through here and long gone, further north to sunnier places. Restaurants are empty, tour offices are closing for the winter and the town has the feel of a place that is getting ready for hibernation.
We had arrived from Torres del Paine, one of the few visitors to remain in the town for the night before heading up into Argentina on the morning bus. Our room was poky and we didn’t fancy returning there until it was time to sleep, so after an early dinner we bra
ved the wind and rain and wandered through the streets looking for somewhere warm to while away the evening. It was after a few moments that we came across Patagonia Dulce.
Warm, welcoming, nicely busy and with the most heavenly smells hitting us on stepping through the door, that feeling of landing on your feet has rarely been stronger! We decided instantly to make an evening of it, and ordered the works; hot chocolate to start, chocolate cakes, a sample of their home-made chocolates, some chocolate ice-cream, and of course another hot chocolate to finish the evening before we braved the storm again.
What can I say? Yes, we felt full to bursting afterwards. No, I wouldn’t have been able to look at another chocolate after we’d got up from the table and waddled out of the door. But as an experience in binge eating for a couple of chocoholics it’s hard to beat. And the extra fat comes in handy in protecting from the cold of course!
If you’re ever in Puerto Natales, go check it out for yourself and let me know if you agree. And if you know a contender for the title of the world’s best, add it here (and preferably send me some samples 
)
(Apr 2007)
Thanks for a great post! Made me laugh and reminded me of when I went to a chocolateria in Ushuaia. A day or two after returning from Antarctica, a group of us who had become quick friends on the boat were lingering around Ushuaia. We all felt some mix of not wanting to leave the end of the world, and not wanting to leave each other after we had shared such am amazing experience. No one had cell phones or computers (just not those kind of travelers haha) but lucky for us there is only one main street in the town and it is short. Through a series of notes left at hostels and “Oh if you see the British guy who just got back from Antarctica, please tell him…” we all met a the chocolateria on the main street for a meal. Everyone ordered different things. I don’t like chocolate much so I ordered pizza, which caused an uproar at the table!
Anyway, I could go on… Glad to read you had a great time and thanks for bringing up a great travel memory for me!
Thanks Jackie. I remember a choc shop in Ushuaia on the high street – probably the same one as yours – but pizza?? I’m sure you did get a funny look from the staff. Glad you enjoyed your time there. Hope to return someday to go to Antarctica.